How to Take Measurements

To learn about how to take your measurements the correct way, there is step-by-step info. Be caushen to do it the right way.

 

WHAT IS A BASIC BLOCK?
A basic block (sloper in American terminology) is a basic bodice, sleeve, skirt, pant, or dress pattern that is made to fit a particular individual, size, or mannequin exactly or accurately. It has minimal darts or design features and is usually sewn with muslin or some other inexpensive light-weight cotton fabric. A basic block is used as a template to create more complicated designs or styles, once the fit has been perfected for that particular customer or client.
WHAT IS THE CORRECT METHOD TO TAKE MEASUREMENTS?

Each company or individual has their own method for taking measurements and no one style is correct, It really depends on the individual or company. This concept also applies to Samuel Eskenasy – You are free to measure the body in your own style, however, we can not guarantee the accuracy of the resulting drafted pattern.

You can download our measurement guide here or simply click the next option to view instructions for each measurement.

We highly recommend asking a friend to take your measurements, as this is easier and more accurate than doing it yourself. Similarly, you could ask your friend to model for you.

When measurements are taken, ensure the model is standing with their back straight in a comfortable posture. Make sure both feet are together and arms are placed at the side – symmetry of the body is key to taking good measurements.

Finally, make sure the model is not holding their breath or sucking in their stomach.

For best results, we recommend you take each measurement three times and use the average of the three values. Remember to take your time and above all relax and enjoy it.

WHAT IS EASE?
Ease plays an important role when building a pattern, it determines how your garment fits. Ease is the difference between your actual body measurements and your finished garment measurements at the bust, waist, and hips. The amount of ease added to a pattern changes the fit of your block. There are generally two types of ease that can be used when drafting your basic blocks: wearing ease and design ease.

Wearing ease – The close fit block is the most commonly used block, and gives the minimum amount of extra room needed to allow for comfortable, non-restricted movement, allowing you to sit, move, raise your arms and breathe easily. Any more ease than this is considered design ease.

Design ease example – Let’s look at design ease on the waist. Place the tape measure around your waist and expand it until you are happy with the distance from the body in terms of your design. To assess how much design ease you need, subtract the actual waist measurement from this design measurement. This concept applies to both bust and hip.

Zero and negative ease – A basic block or garment with zero or negative ease, will measure either the same or smaller than your actual body measurements. Zero or negative ease is predominately used for stretch fabrics that have more give and therefore have the ability to comfortably stretch around the body. Garments that use a negative ease include corsets, swimwear, jersey, and active wear. Luckily, we plan for the near future to have a range of basic swim, corsets and jersey blocks that have zero or negative ease built in, making it easier for beginners to easily create these designs, without having to adjust the block’s ease.

BUST

Bust Measurement

Standing with a straight back and having a good posture is the key to taking accurate measurements. Wrap a soft tape measure around the bust. Take it around the back, across the shoulder blades, and under the arms. It should wrap around the fullest part of the bust. The tape measure should be straight and parallel to the floor. Make sure the tape measure does not fall at the back.

WAIST

Waist Measurement

Cut a piece of string that is long enough to wrap around the waist at least twice. Tie a slipknot at one end and open the loop wide enough for your model to step into it. Move the slipknot loop up the torso until it is roughly at waist position.

While standing straight, ask your model to bend over to the front or side and make a note of where the body creases. This is the natural waist. It’s the narrowest part of the torso, generally located between the rib cage and belly button.

Once you have located the waist, tighten the slipknot loop until it securely, yet comfortably sits around the waist. Make sure the model is not holding her breath or sucking her stomach in. She should be holding her body erect in a comfortable standing posture. Make sure the string is parallel to the floor, all the way around the waist. Finally, measure around the entire waist with a tape measure.

When you are finished, leave the string in place. It will form a permanent guide for your other measurements throughout the fitting. Bear in mind, the less movement the model makes the more accurate the guide will be.

HIPS

Hips Measurement

Wrap the tape measure around the fullest part of the hips and buttocks. Keep the tape measure parallel to the floor. Bring the tape measure together in the center front and take your measurement. Be sure to prevent yourself from drawing it too tightly.

It is a good idea to measure the distance between the waist and recently measured hip line (measured at center front) as you will need it later when entering the waist to hip measurement.

BACK WIDTH

Back Width Measurement

Measure the back width 15cm down (5 7/8”) from the nape (most prominent bone) at the center back. Measure from armscye to armscye making sure the tape measure is parallel to the ground.

Armscye – The armscye can be found by extending a line from the armpit crease to the tip of the shoulder.

Shoulder Point – The shoulder point is located at the very tip of the clavical where it meets the shoulder bone. It is a good idea to mark the shoulder point with a non-permanent marker as a reference for later.

CHEST

Chest Measurement

Measure the chest 7cm (2 3/4”) down from the neck point at the center front. Measure from armscye to armscye making sure the measuring tape is parallel to the ground.

Armscye – The armscye can be found by extending a line from the armpit crease to the tip of the shoulder.

Shoulder Point – The shoulder point is located at the very tip of the clavicle where it meets the shoulder bone. It is a good idea to mark the shoulder point with a non-permanent marker as a reference for later.

NAPE TO WAIST

Nape To Waist Measurement

Ask your model to stand straight, adopting a good posture. Measure from the nape point to the waistline.

WAIST TO FLOOR

Waist To Floor Measurement

Ask your model to stand straight adopting a good posture. Measure from the waist to the floor at the centre back.

WAIST TO HIP

Waist To Hip Measurement

Ask your model to stand straight adopting a good posture. Measure from the waistline to the recently measured Hip. Measure down the center front of the body. This measurement should be between 18cm – 21cm (7 1/8″ – 8 1/4″). It is a good idea to take this measurement at the same time as measuring the Hip.

All the information about taking measurements are with help of Patternlab.london

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